Disclosure: We are not paid sponsors, employees, or affiliated with any of the businesses mentioned in this post. These are places we genuinely enjoyed visiting.
As a general rule, David and I travel at a leisurely pace, building in extra time to really soak in a place. The Four Corners region was no different when we planned our one-month stop. However, an Achilles injury changed everything and a one-month stop turned into ten weeks. Honestly, we couldn’t have picked a better place for a summer stay. There was so much more to see and do here than we imagined. As the weeks went by, we came to love the small town charm and sense of community. Whether you’re just passing through or planning an extended stay, these are a few of our favorite places that you should know about too.
Four Corners Base Camp
Dolores, CO: the Tiny Town with a Huge Heart
We stayed at a campground just outside Dolores, CO. The town is tucked into a canyon a few miles north of Cortez, along the Dolores River. At 7,000 feet, it hits the sweet spot for summer living. Days hover around 80, and nights dip down around 60. Perfection. Surrounded by mountains, canyons, rivers and lakes, the town is prime real estate for outdoor adventure lovers and it’s just enough off the beaten tourist track to feel a little less busy and a lot more local. What the town lacks in size, it makes up for in charm with a surprisingly good music scene and plenty of activities for day and evening.
Destinations like Mesa Verde, Durango, and Telluride are just a short trip away making Dolores a perfect summer home base.
Places to Stay
We stayed at The Views RV Park & Campground, a family-owned park off of CO-184 across from McPhee Reservoir. It sits high on a bluff overlooking the town of Cortez, Mesa Verde, and Sleeping Ute Mountain. Amenities include a hiking trail, communal grills, and scenic picnic and fire pit areas. “The Views” are exceptional.
The other campground in town is Dolores River RV Resort, which is closer to town and sits right on the river. Honestly, it looked pretty nice from our drive through. The only drawback we could see was that most of the spaces weren’t big-rig-friendly. At 39 feet, George (our RV) would have been a tight fit, but the grounds were nice, and it looked like a lovely park for smaller rigs.
There were also a couple of inns in town and a hostel, but since we’re full-time RVers, we focus on campgrounds.
Pueblos & Ancient History
Mesa Verde National Park
Mesa Verde was a big reason we made our way to Four Corners, Colorado. I had finished a volunteer gig at Elden Pueblo in Flagstaff and wanted to dive deeper into the story of the ancient Pueblo peoples. I booked two ranger guided tours our first weekend in town. Pro tip: Mesa Verde offers several tour options and they fill up quickly. Don’t just show up and expect entry. Visit recreation.gov, read the tour descriptions and book early to secure a spot at the best preserved buildings.
We toured Balcony House and Long House on the day of our visit. Balcony House is billed as the most extreme tour with 40-foot ladders, crawling through tunnels and an exit cliff walk up to the top of the mesa. I did this same tour years ago and remembered it as a really fun, learning experience with a hint of danger, which is always a bonus in my book. If you are afraid of heights, it’s probably not a tour for you; otherwise I highly recommend. It was fun and held up to my memories. Long House is a large, more traditional pueblo. It gives a better sense of how the community lived here. There are only a couple of small ladders, but it is the longest guided tour coming in at 2.5-mile round-trip. Even if you skip the guided tours, there are a number of hikes and ruins to explore along the mesa top.
So we spent a day exploring Mesa Verde and that was it. No more hiking. The Achilles “issue” I had been dealing with for several months turned into a nasty injury. I’m pretty sure the ladders were the tipping point. It was time to stay in one place a bit and seek treatment.
Canyon of the Ancients
Despite my injury, there were still opportunities to get out and experience history. The Canyon of the Ancients visitor center was just down from our campgroundon CO-184. It has a nice museum as well as a short walk up to the top of the bluff to enjoy the views of McPhee Reservoir and explore a small ruin.
At the museum, we we grabbed a map of the Trail of the Ancients driving loop. The 116-mile loop is a day trip of its own with stops at Lowry Pueblo, Hovenweep National Monument, Sand Canyon, and a few others. Considering the shape I was in, we stuck to short walks and overlooks but there are plenty of opportunities to hike otherwise.
Best Day Trips In Four Corners
Durango Silverton Train
Our big day trip adventure was riding the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, a must-do for anyone visiting the area. It’s a scenic ride through the mountains; with a two-hour stop in the historic mining town of Silverton. There was plenty of time to grab lunch and wander the shops before heading back down the mountain. It was one of our most memorable experiences in the area and belongs on every Four Corners itinerary, whether you stay a week or a month.
Durango pulled us in several times for doctor visits as well as “touristing.” Road biking was a PT-approved activity for me, so we hit the 7-mile Animas River Trail one afternoon. If you’re traveling with bikes, this is a nice activity. We also took in a soak at Durango Hot Springs one evening, enjoying multiple pools in an outdoor setting.
Telluride
Telluride lies about an hour-and-a-half from where we stayed, our max for a day trip. It’s a charming ski town, nestled among the high peaks that transform into a mountain biking mecca during the summer months. We spent our day lunching, shopping, and riding the gondolas up to Mountain Village to enjoy the scenery. The gondolas are free and part of the public transportation system.
On our drive home, we got a bonus. A huge bear crossed the road ahead of us, which is exactly how we had hoped to see one.
Hiking Trails Locals Love
Even though I couldn’t hike, David did. He tackled the 8.8-mile McPhee Overlook Trail several times and loved it. The trailoffers spectacular lake views snd makes a great morning hike for anyone staying near Dolores. Parking and the trailhead are at the end of County Road 28.
The only other spot I could get out for a short walk was Transfer Campground above Mancos. My physical therapist recommended it. Even if you don’t hike, the drive is worth it for the views. To get there follow, the signs from CO-184 to Jackson Lake and Mancos State Park then continue north another six miles past the park entrance.
Arts & Culture
David and I aren’t one-dimensional people. We know how to pivot when needed. Since our usual outdoor activities were limited, it was time to look deeper into local art and culture. We found a thriving scene that exceeded our expectations.
Dolores River Brewery
Music is the Groove in our Gravel and Four Corners has an outstanding music scene. Dolores River Brewery (DRB),
located right on the town square, is at the heart of it all, hosting live shows all summer long. The lineups aren’t just cover bands either. They bring in original artists from across the nation: Americana, Bluegrass, Country, and we even saw a New Orleans-style jazz band with a full horn section. Every weekend, the place fills up with locals of all ages dancing the night away. Their beer garden is exactly that, an actual flower-filled garden. It’s beautiful, a perfect place to hang out any time of day. DRB quickly became our go-to for evening entertainment. In addition to music, they host weekly trivia and karaoke.
Dolores Bike Hostel
Dolores Bike Hostel, is the other venue on the town square. It’s a full-time hostel, part-time yoga studio and bar, and sometimes even a music venue. They don’t host shows as often as DRB but when they do, a good time is guaranteed to be had. Drinks are served from an Airstream parked in the side yard. Colorful outdoor seating gives it a fun, quirky vibe. If you’re into whiskey drinks, try their Lavender Honey Old Fashioned. Trust me on this one.
Sunflower Theater
The Sunflower Theater is located right off Main Street, down the hill in Cortez, CO. It hosts all kinds of interesting and affordable events. Along with live music, we attended a poetry writing workshop, Spoken Word night, and if we had been there longer, we would have signed up for improv classes and voice lessons.
Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch
One of the most memorable evenings we experienced was a storytelling and blues showcase at the Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch featuring author Craig Childs and bluesman Charlie Musselwhite. Nestled in in McElmo Canyon, the ranch offers unique lodging for non RV travelers. I’m not sure how often they host events, but it’s worth looking into if you’re in the area.
The best way to be “in the know” on all the local happenings is to check one of the many community bulletin boards. The most comprehensive ones we found were inside Dolores Food Market and outside the Sunflower Theater.
Four Corners Food Scene
Farmers Markets
Food-wise, Four Corners is farm country, and it shows. The Wednesday afternoon market in Dolores is ideal for late risers like me. The market is held in the town square and features farm stands, food and craft vendors and even local musicians. I was there every week to grab the freshest in-season veggies. If you’re more of a Saturday morning market goer, Cortez hosts a bigger market, so I’m told. It was too early for me.
Farm Stores
Pueblo Seed & Food was my other “shop local” food stop. The farm specializes in heritage grains, garlic and chili peppers. They have a retail store on North Beech Street in Cortez that’s open on Friday and Saturday. The store sells an assortment of grains and features a bakery. The seeded rye bread was my weekly buy, along with the cocoa chili rye cookies. So good. Yes, I’m kind of obsessed with rye. Before we left, we stocked up on quinoa, polenta and rye berries as well as a half-bushel of roasted chili peppers. You read that right, half a bushel. Watch our full chili pepper video for more on that story.
Bells Beef is the local ranch store, stocked with all the beef for your grilling needs. It’s conveniently located between highways 491 and 145 on County Road M.
Restaurants
If you’re in the mood to splurge on a fine experience, consider a trip to The Boathouse on Grand (avenue) in Mancos. They fly in fresh seafood andpair it with seasonal local ingredients, so the menu changes regularly based on whats freshest and in season. The space is cozy and intimate, ideal for a special night out. We shared a cheese plate and a salad; David ordered the oysters and I chose the scallops. Every bite felt elevated. It was a truly delectable experience. The restaurant is open for dinner Thursday through Sunday, and reservations are recommended.
As for our repeat destinations, we stayed close to home in Dolores. David and I love Mexican food and Montezuma’s Mexican was our favorite. They made some of the best flautas I’ve ever had. They also had riverside seating, an amenity sorely missed while we were in Arizona. Kelly’s Kitchen was our favorite breakfast/lunch spot. Maybe it was the name; all I know is that it was tasty.
Drink Local
The Four Corners region is brimming with local drinking spots, from cozy coffee spots to lively breweries in every town. I’ve already raved about Dolores River Brewing, a frequent stop for us thanks to its proximity. In Cortez, Main Street Brewing showcases the towns craft beer scene and Mancos Brewing also delivers a great vibe. Mancos also boasts Fenceline Cider, where you can enjoy refreshing drinks and relaxed outdoor seating along the river but I was most surprised by the nearby vineyard.
Yes, there is wine. Tucked away in McElmo Canyon, Sutcliffe Vineyards offers an idyllic setting for an afternoon glass of wine. Pair it with their stone-fired pizzas and you’ve got a perfect lunch. During the summer, the vineyard hosts special dinner events. We lucked into seats at their Harvest Dinner, a sold-out affair, thanks to a couple we met at Dolores River Brewing. The dress code was “canyon chic,” and the five-course meal featured excellent food and wine pairings prepared by a Michelin-rated chef in an outdoor setting. It was an elegant, delicious and unforgettable evening. Check out their website for the latest events and offerings.
In the End
It was an amazing summer despite my injury. Between breathtaking scenery and a surprisingly vibrant music, food and arts scene, there was always something new to experience. I had too much “to-do” to be sad about missing out on any hiking or biking. I could go on and on about how much fun we had here, and, believe it or not, I didn’t mention everything. So if you are planning a Colorado getaway, Four Corners deserves a spot on your itinerary.
